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The beginning of this Nikon D80 review is very simple. The same goes for the conclusion. The whole review could be summarised in a single sentence, understandable both to Nikon users as to those wishing to purchase an advanced entry-level DSLR.
Nikon is back in the saddle! Following their successful Nikon D200 they introduced a replacement for the Nikon D70s. The new Nikon D80 is a camera that is made for the more demanding hobbyist.
What do I mean by “Nikon is back in the saddle”? Nikon has introduced a camera aimed at the hobbyists which has a good body and a lot of features that used to be the exclusive domain of more expensive cameras. Nikon’s sales are growing this year, and this trend is sure to continue with the D80. The Nikon D50, their most affordable DSLR, is in my opinion not a true Nikon. I’m sure many Nikonians would agree with me. However, it’s an excellent camera for everyone entering the SLR world who want something with a name. A name that’s been creating the SLR class since 1959, no less. Why don’t I consider the D50 not to be a true Nikon? This company is particularly famous for their F series cameras. In the year 1959, they introduced the legendary F. The camera might have had a short name, but it had a wide array of accessories and lenses, making it the darling of photojournalists everywhere. Up to 1977, Nikon didn’t even market its other cameras under the Nikon brand. The only Nikon was the F series. All other cameras were called Nikkormat. I still remember my first visits to photography shows and admiring these amazing cameras, which were firmly out of my financial reach. Nikon always made sure that they were a technology leader, which also meant their cameras were quite expensive.
In 1977, Nikon started approaching amateur photographers. They introduced a fully manual camera, the FM, and did so under the Nikon brand. As this camera was excellent from both technologically and ergonomically, Nikon and Nikkormat users quickly adopted it, making it a baby F. It was very desirable for the advanced amateurs, while the photojournalists mainly used it as their second or third camera. Times were different back then, with Nikon having a 85% market share in pro cameras. The FM and the later FE, which already had shutter priority, they started entering the amateur market. Canon’s system camera, the F-1, only had an 8 to 10% market share, and the remainder consisted of the Minolta XM and the Pentax LX. Contax RTS was more or less exotica, while Leica was the choice of the most demanding (and well-heeled) photographers due to its superior optics.
In 1979, Nikon went a step forward. It was a step that divided Nikon users into two parties. The question was – is Nikon doing the right thing by marketing its new cameras under the Nikon brand or not? If photo forums existed back then, their servers would have been overloaded. The cause of all of this turmoil was the Nikon EM. Canon introduced the AE-1, which was selling in record quantities. It was the first SLR that offered simple use with the help of a microprocessor, which was unheard of then, since SLR cameras were anything but easy to use without some knowledge. For this reason, Nikon decided to get a few financial biscuits out of the tin that were the amateur photographers. Who could blame them? The Nikon name was a powerful magnet back then. But should they actually enter the amateur market? Many Nikon users simply couldn’t comprehend this entry into the mass market. This was further compounded by the fact that a few affordable, “plastic” E series lenses were made. For that reason, it’s not that unusual to hear that an entry-level Nikon is not a true Nikon.
Whether Nikon EM and the later Nikon FG were a step in the right direction or not is something that only Nikon know. Personally, I think it was, since it made Nikon available to us amateurs. However, these cameras didn’t have quite the superiority in their class, much unlike the F series. The Canon A series, the Minolta XD series and the Pentax M series were far more popular with photographers entering the SLR world.
Well, enough with history lessons, though they serve as a good background for the Nikon philosophy and the way they entered the amateur world. Nowadays, the boundaries between hobbyists, amateurs and professionals are getting more and more blurry, making it difficult to discuss a camera’s purpose and usability. To conclude the introduction which should primarily be of interest to the more recent Nikon users. The Nikon D80 gives a good first impression, and makes sure you realise it's a true Nikon.It only needs a “true” lens. Unfortunately, here Nikon started doing something quite like the things they did in 1979.
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| The size alone of the Nikon D80 is a very good signal that it will be easier to hold than the smaller and narrower competition. The size can be a deciding factor for the customer. By using this body, the D80 shows who its target audience is - the more demanding photographers. As to hoi polloi, they will probably prefer smaller cameras. |
Nikon D80
Just a few more words about the Nikon philosophy. They seldom introduce new features in mass-market cameras. As mentioned in the interview with Mr. Charles-André Wamberque, Assistant Manager, Product Planning and R&D Department, Nikon prefer to test their solutions extensively before marketing them.
Looking at the specifications of Nikon D80, it is hard to justify its higher price compared to other 10 megapixel DSLR cameras. However, one must always consider the whole package. This is when differences become apparent. Long time ago, it became very clear what the megapixel count means. Very little.
After reading the first press releases, I was quite sceptical regarding the price/performance ratio. The body price of about 980 EUR seemed OK. It was the price with a kit lens, either the 18-135 or the 18-70, (about 1300 EUR with either lens) that was a bit high compared to other 10 megapixel cameras, which usually went for about 1000 EUR with the kit lens.
Many will be surprised by the fact that Nikon still refuse to include at least one of the two very popular (and useful) new features in this camera. These features are the dust removal system (Olympus and Canon) and in-body image stabilisation (Sony, Pentax, Samsung). Both systems are quite useful, in addition to being a marketing advantage. However, Nikon decided to go their own way and again justified their well known strategy.
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The body
I almost always start a camera’s description with “… when you grab the camera …”. No reason to do it any other way this time.
When you grab the camera, it is immediately apparent who Nikon are aiming at with the D80. While most entry level 10 megapixel DSLR cameras are rather small and difficult to hold for longer periods, Nikon stuck with the well established formula. They made a body that is, in terms of ergonomics and usefulness, significantly better than its 10 megapixel competition. Nikon are actually not to keen on comparing this camera with other 10 megapixel cameras, as these are mostly entry level, which is more or less the domain of the D50. However, the price points are similar, as are some basic features, which is why I will compare the camera with the abovementioned competition.
It's the dimension and the ergonomics of the matte plastic body that make the D80 a completely different camera. When I’m asked about this camera's usefulness and whether it's a good buy, it's usually the ergonomics of the D80 body that tip the scales favourably, making it the right choice for the more demanding hobbyist. In this price bracket, the D80 is the only one to offer firm grip and all major functions on buttons, with no need for using the menus. At the same time, the D80 is the only camera that has a separate monochromatic LCD screen used to display settings. This goes to further show how much of the D200 excellent design was reused in the D80. Of course, costs had to be cut, resulting in different materials and a reduced feature set. The first conclusion is quick to appear. Nikon D80 is more of a baby D200 than just a D70s replacement.
The front side of the body (132 x 103 x 77 mm, 668 g including the battery) has seven buttons. To the right of the lens mount are the AF mode button (used to switch between auto and manual focus), lens release button, bracketing button and the flash release button.
To the left of the mount, there is a depth-of-field preview button, above it is a function button (the function can be set in Custom Settings, No 16), and further up is a self-timer indicator diode, also used to counter the red-eyes effect. On the grip, which is covered in softer, textured plastic, there’s a control dial.
On the left side of the camera, two rubber covers provide excellent protection for remote release, video, DC and USB connectors.
To the right, there’s the memory card compartment door. Nikon decided to use SD cards in the D80. It’s an interesting choice, but with most users perceiving the CF cards as a more professional choice, I find it difficult to follow the logic. However, there’s nothing wrong with using SD cards. Perhaps Nikon is counting on D50 users migrating to a higher class, where this compatibility will be a good thing. The D80 can use the SD HC cards, which offer higher capacity and faster speed than the classic SD cards.
The top of the camera is very busy, thanks to the large and well laid-out LCD screen. To the left, there's the mode dial, used to select modes. The built-in flash is in the middle, as is the external flash hot shoe. To the right, there’s the big LCD screen used to display image capture parameters. The shutter release is on top of the grip, surrounded by the on/off switch also used to activate the screen lighting. Next to shutter release, there’s the metering mode button, with the choices of 3D Color Matrix II using a 420 pixel CCD sensor, centre-weighted (the size of the circle can be preset in custom settings) and spot metering.
To the right of it, there’s the exposure compensation button (up to 5EV in 1/3 or 1/2 EV steps). There are two other buttons, the drive mode button (single, burst, self-timer, remote release) and the AF mode (single, continuous or auto) button.
The back of the camera has relatively few buttons. This is good, because it leaves a lot of space free on the right, offering a decent grip. It would seem that Nikon really made the D80 to be the baby D200. A few features and buttons were removed, along with some of the more advanced menu options, and that's it.
First of all, there’s the viewfinder. It’s clearly a cut above the competition. The camera uses a pentaprism. It’s the only one in its class to do so. The pentaprism makes it possible to have a higher viewfinder magnification than a pentamirror arrangement. Looking through the viewfinder, the difference between the D80 and other cameras is easy to spot, since the D80 makes it easier to evaluate the scene and focus manually. Also, estimating depth of field in depth-of-field preview is easier.
To the left of the viewfinder, there’s the delete button (pressing it simultaneously with the metering mode button displays the Format Card option), while beneath it are, from top to bottom, image review button, Menu button, WB button (in playback mode, it is used to lock an image, preventing accidental deletion), also used as help (?) button in the menus, ISO button (in playback mode, it is used to zoom out) and image quality button (in playback mode, it is used to zoom in).
Under the viewfinder, there’s the 2.5 inch LCD screen with a resolution of 230,000 pixels. To the right of the display, there’s the AE and AF lock button and the second control dial, used to control menu functions.
Beneath it, there’s the four-way button used to navigate between 11 AF points and through the menus. Below it, there’s the on/off switch for the four-way button. In this way, accidental changes of AF points can be avoided. Last is the OK button, used to confirm menu settings.
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| The grip is large, making the camera easy to hold. |
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| The EN-EL3e Li-ion battery. |
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| The built-in flash comes in handy as a fill-in flash. If you want more than that, you’ll need to buy an external flash. Through the menu, several external flashes can be controlled wirelessly. |
The menu has five main screens. The first screen is used for image review settings, the second is used for image capture settings, the third is used for personal settings, the fourth for setup and the fifth for in-camera image processing. Comparing the menus to those in D200, it quickly becomes apparent that they removed most advanced settings. In this way, the D80 actually gained on the user-friendliness, as too many settings serve only to confuse an amateur photographer.
Despite this, Nikon kept most of the interesting features and added a few new ones in the D80. Since there are so many and copying the manual would serve no reasonable purpose, this review will not go into detail.
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| Basic screen |
The first screen, the playback menu, contains the Hide Image function, which deserves a detailed description. Sometimes, people want to see the pictures you took. Using Hide Image, the photographer can select images and hide them in image playback. This means that others won't be able to see them. This is very useful for those photographers who take pictures of what should remain hidden.
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| Just select images in Hide Image… |
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| ...and they’re gone from image review. However, the numbers do show that a picture has been hidden. |
The camera also enables in-camera post-processing. It can be used to reduce the red-eyes effect, correct the tonality using the D-Lighting feature, combine two RAW files into one, crop, create a lower resolution copy or add colour effects.
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| The Retouch screen. Several things can be done in the camera alone. This way, the computer doesn’t have to be used, or in case one isn't nearby, the images can be processed anyway. |
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| D-lighting makes it possible to open up the shadows in underexposed portions of the image. |
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| Left: original. Right: shadows have been opened up. |
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| ... By using the Enhanced option, the correction is even bigger. |
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| Even before taking pictures, several processing parameters can be set in order to make the image more appealing. This makes it possible to avoid post-processing in the computer. |
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| The camera also has some preset parameter groups. |
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| ... The Custom preset can be customised to give exactly the results you want. |
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| Sharpening adjustment. |
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| Saturation adjustment. |
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| The Setup screen has additional settings. |
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| There are 32 Custom Settings in total. Do read the manual and get to know them. Many of them might just prove useful to you. |
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| AF zone size. |
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| Light metering circle in centre-weighted average metering. |
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| Self-timer settings. |
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| Battery type selection (only when using the optional battery grip). |
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| The D80 also has the possibility of using automatic ISO sensitivity. This function can come in very handy. Just pick the longest time you’re willing to use in order to insure a sharp image, and the camera will take care of sensitivity settings in case there's not enough light. |
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| Custom Function No. 16 is used to choose what the Function button should do. |
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| If you happen to get completely lost in the settings and want to return to factory defaults, you can always use the Reset function. Since there are so many settings, I suggest you keep your eye on the camera in case someone else is browsing through the menus. |
The Shooting Menu contains the Optimize Image function, which is used to set in-camera processing for the captured image.There are already some presets, but for maximum personalisation, use Custom to set sharpening, tonality, contrast, saturation and hue shift settings to your liking. However, as I’m sure you’re all aware, in order to get the best possible quality, these settings should be set to 0 and then post-processed in the computer. For even higher quality, use RAW format and post-process them using Nikon Capture NX.
The Custom Settings screen has some rather interesting settings. Custom settings 02 and 03 are used to set the AF area and the AF area width. Custom Function 07 is used to set Auto ISO, in which case the camera adjusts the sensitivity in case there’s too much or too little light at the given combination of shutter/aperture setting. Custom Function 16 is used to set the Function button, which is on the front of the camera, to the right of the lens mount. Custom Function 18 is used to set the behaviour of the AE-L/AF-L button. There are 32 settings in total, so make sure you get to know them well before you start using the camera. In case someone messes up your custom settings, you can always use the Reset function to reset them back to factory defaults. However, you’ll have to set them again to suit your preferences.
A bit of advice. As soon as someone with the least bit of interest in photography sees you with a DSLR camera, they’ll want to take a look at it. However, they’ll be quick to find the menu, which might prove to be a Bad Thing. A few button presses, a few confirmations, and your camera doesn't behave the way you're used to. The best thing to do is to ask them not to enter the menu, or, if you’re even more protective, remove the battery. This will save you a lot of trouble.
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| The menus contain a lot of useful features. |
Features and performance
The Nikon D80 uses a 10 megapixel Sony sensor, very likely the same as the one used in Sony Alpha and the upcoming Pentax K10D. The sensor is 23.6 x 15.8 mm in size and has 10.2 effective megapixels. The crop factor, compared to the 35 mm full frame, is 1.5. The image processor is the same as the one used in D200. Also, the pro D2X uses the exact same processor. The 3D Color Matrix II with 420 pixel CCD sensor was previously used in the D50. The 11 point AF sensor is the same as the one in D200 (MultiCAM 1000).
Shutters times range from 1/4000 s to 30 s, with the possibility of Bulb. Flash sync is 1/200 s. The D80 also has auto ISO setting to compensate for inadequate light at a certain shutter speed. Viewfinder blackout time is 80 ms.
These days, however, the software is just as important as the technology. The D80 has a menu chock full of useful functions and possibilities of in-camera corrections of the captured images. In case you decide to buy the Nikon D80, I recommend that you get really well acquainted with the instruction manual. The menus contain countless features that could make your life that little bit easier.
This all goes to show that in addition to making a great body, Nikon also transferred a lot of the advanced features from its higher-priced cameras, such as the D200 and the D2X. By doing this, the Nikon D80 gained a lot in capture and processing quality, as well as having a very good viewfinder, fast and accurate functioning, while still retaining a lot of user friendliness by using both buttons and menus to access the most important settings.
Nikon D80 in practice
My first contact with the camera was a pleasant one. It made me care far less about the lack of the abovementioned features (dust removal and in-camera image stabilisation). This of course presumes that I don't really care about dust (I could always use the software solution in Capture NX) and that I use stabilised lenses. However, Nikon users are more interested in the way the everything works together than in the latest features.
This is why it is so important that the camera offers a good grip. Even more so, if you like to take a lot of pictures. For the purpose of this review, I used it a lot at the same time as the competition. Nikon D80 was a pleasure to hold. Other, smaller cameras, however, which didn’t offer much in the way of little finger and hand support, ended up hanging around my neck.
Once you grow accustomed to the buttons, using them is simple. They are large and well placed. All functions are clearly visible on the topside LCD screen. Also, the menus are well laid out and intuitive. And just in case you don’t really understand what a function does and your manual is in a different time zone, you can always press the ? button and display a short help mesasge.
Turning the camera on is fast. It’s ready to shoot almost in an instant. The large, bright viewfinder is a testimony to the advantages of pentaprisms versus pentamirrors. The 11 AF points are well spaced, while the active point lights up. Focusing is fast, however, this does sometimes depend on the focusing speed of the lens itself. Light metering and white balance are brilliant.
As to the battery, little needs to be said. It's the same battery as the one used in the D200 and has a capacity of over 1000 shots. Battery status indicator is also noteworthy. The indicator has five segments, meaning it’s easier to see exactly how much juice is left in the battery.
After shooting with this camera for a while, you really come to appreciate how important ergonomics and usability are. Nikon has kept with its tradition of providing a higher usability than the competition.
Image quality
This is the most difficult part of the test. All entry level cameras (except for the more affordable Pentax K100D and two older cameras, the Olympus E-500 and Nikon D50) have 10 megapixel sensors. There are three main manufacturers of DSLR sensors today – Canon, Sony and Matsushita. All these technical data tell little about image quality, however. The most important aspects are still the lens and processing, whether in-camera or later, in postproduction.
These settings are not the same for all scenes, of course. The D80 even has an Auto mode. In this mode, the camera decides for itself how it should capture a picture according to the picture mode you set. I found that in the Auto mode, the camera makes very appealing images. All required adjustments are taken care of, in most cases eliminating the need for further corrections. Of course, there are many more options that influence the final quality and the appeal of the image. By looking at the D80's menu, we quickly find that there are more ways of influencing the final quality than one would imagine. At least fifty percent of the final quality depend on the photographer’s skill at using post-processing software. It’s all a bit of a Catch 22, really. In my opinion, image quality of the Nikon D80 is completely satisfactory for the hobbyist photographers. Which is exactly who the camera is meant for. If you want to get more out of your camera, you will need to get better lenses and then do some post-processing in software later.
I already stated this in 1996, when I first wrote about digital photography, and it hasn't changed since then. With today's technology, the image isn't finished when the shutter is released, that's just the beginning of its way to the best possible quality. It is my belief that it’s quite impossible to compare the image quality of individual cameras based on images that come straight out of the camera. There are too many different parameters that can influence a picture as it's being captured, making the end result a matter of nuances, not real differences. These nuances are then perceived differently by every viewer. There is almost no end to the creative possibilities offered by different capture and post-production options. And in the end, there’s always post-processing. The more you know about the camera, photography technique and image capture, and finally, about post-processing and using image display and printing units, the higher quality image you can achieve.
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| The whole picture (below are 100% crops). |
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| 100ISO. |
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| 100ISO. |
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| 400ISO. |
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| 400ISO. |
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| 1600ISO. |
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| 1600ISO. |
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| Hi ISO (3200). |
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| Hi ISO (3200). |
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| Shutter time: 1 second. |
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| From left to right: High ISO Noise reduction - Off, Low, Normal, High. |
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| Left: High ISO Noise Reduction Off; Right: High ISO Noise Reduction Normal. |
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| Left: High ISO Noise Reduction – Normal. After that, from left to right: Long Exposure Noise Reduction with High ISO Noise Reduction Low, Normal and High. |
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| The whole picture at 18 mm (below are 100% crops). The in-camera processing produces very appealing images. The image contains strong, saturated tones and loads of contrast. |
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| 18 mm @ f/8. The 18-135 lens starts showing its weak spots. Chromatic aberration (colour fringing) is very pronounced on the edges. |
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| 18 mm @ f/8. Lens: 18-135 mm. |
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| 28mm @ f/8. Lens: 18-135 mm. |
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| 135mm @ f/8. Lens: 18-135 mm. Due to its relatively large maximum focal length of 135 mm (equivalent to 202 mm in full frame 35 mm), even relatively distant subjects can be captured. |
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| 135mm @ f/8. Lens: 18-135 mm. 100% crop. Despite bearing the hallowed Nikkor name, it’s not very sharp. This lens is below average in its entire focal length range. |
The demands of the end users are shifting to lenses as sensor and processors advance. This is where Nikon lost it a bit with the AF-S DX IF ED 18-135 mm f/3.5-5.6G lens. It was supposed to be the ideal kit lens for those who want an all-in-one solution. They managed to do that quite well. In full frame terms, the lens has a focal length range of 27 to 202 mm, which is all that most hobbyists require. Having a light, small lens that can do both wide angle and telephoto. By doing this, there’s no need to change lenses, making it an excellent choice for a traveller. There are, of course, a few flies in this budget ointment. In addition to having a rather high price for a kit lens (above 300 EUR), its optical performance is below average.
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| The 18-70 mm lens, first introduced together with the D70, has proved to be an excellent lens. True, its price bumps up the price of the whole kit compared to the 10 megapixel competition. However, there’s no choice about that with Nikon. It does offer considerably more bang for your favourite currency than the competition, though. |
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| The 18-135 mm lens is hard to recommend to anyone except those who can cover all their needs with it focal length range (27 to 202 mm equivalent), don't really have high expectations when it comes to sharpness and rarely print larger than 13 x 18 cm (5 x 7” for the Imperialists among you). But then one has to wonder – why buy the Nikon D80? You can get better third party lenses for the price. They do lack the Nikon badge, though. |
And while Nikon pride themselves on higher quality of their products, the “plasticky” temptation proved to be too sweet. Sure, for the less demanding users, the AF-S DX IF ED 18-135 mm f/3.5-5.6G lens will be just fine. However, considering its quality, it should be far cheaper. Considering how well the Nikon D80 handles and its intended target audience of the more demanding hobbyists, I find it difficult to recommend the AF-S DX IF ED 18-135 mm f/3.5-5.6G. If you decide to purchase the excellent Nikon D80 because you are or want to be an advanced amateur, I strongly recommend that you get the kit wit the AF-S DX ED 18-70 mm f/3.5-4.5G lens.
If you need an all-in-one lens for travel photography or if you don’t want to change the lens, you’ll be better off with a Sigma/Tamron 18-200 mm. They cost the same as the Nikon 18-135 mm lens.
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| The 18-135 mm lens (27-202 mm equivalent) could be the only lens a less demanding user needs. It has a reasonably wide angle … |
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| ... as well as a reasonable telephoto reach of 135 mm (202 mm equivalent). Being light and compact, it’s exactly what the travel photographer needs. |
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| As long as you use it for holiday snaps and you’re not too demanding when it comes to quality and large prints, you’ll be perfectly happy with it. |
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| 100% crop. To the even slightly more demanding photographer, the 18-135 won’t be the right choice, though. |
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| 18 mm, ISO 100, 1/1000 s, f/3.5. Due to its pentaprism, the Nikon D80 has a bright viewfinder with high magnification, making it easier to control the depth of field. |
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| 18mm, 100ISO, 1/125s., f/8. |
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| The shortcomings only become apparent at high magnifications. |
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| 75mm, 100ISO, 1/640s, f/5.6. |
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| 135mm, 400ISO, 1/60s, f/5.6. |
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| 85mm, 400ISO, 1/125s, f/5.6. |
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| 135mm, ISO 100, 1/400 s, f/5.6 The lens has a reasonable telephoto reach, making it possible to capture relatively distant subjects. However, this is where another of the 18-135 mm lens’s shortcomings pops up. Vignetting (darker corners) is very pronounced at longer focal lengths above 100 mm. |
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| 135mm, 100ISO, 1/500s, f/5.6. |
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| 135mm, 100ISO, 1/640s, f/6.3. |
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| 135mm, 100ISO, 1/640s, f/6.3. |
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| 18mm, 100ISO, 1/320s, f/9. |
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| 70mm, 100ISO, 1/50s, f/4.5. |
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| 18mm, 100ISO, 1/100s, f/5. |
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| 55mm, 100ISO, 1/160s, f/6.3. |
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| 62mm, 100ISO, 1/100s, f/4.5. |
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| 18mm, 100ISO, 1/250s, f/8. |
Conclusion
With the D80, Nikon is ahead of the pack again. But that’s just what they do. Compared to Canon, in the amateur and semi-pro class, Nikon always had cameras that were a bit more advanced than the competition. They were, of course, also more expensive. For this reason, the Nikon D80 shouldn’t be compared to the EOS 400D / Rebel XTi or the Alpha 100 and other entry-level cameras. The first clue is the larger body of the D80, offering a far better grip. This is of course true for the photographer who values grip above size. In addition to that, the Nikon D80 has a load of useful features in the menus. For this reason, I recommend the Nikon D80 to all photographers who want something more, not just a mass market entry level camera. It will of course cost you more. While the price differences between the bodies may be minor, the kit lens is more expensive. This contributes to a higher kit price, requiring additional thought on whether or not to buy an entry level DSLR.
If, however, you are a demanding amateur, and especially if you can take advantage of all the settings this camera offers and want to get what you really need, then Nikon D80 is the right choice at this time.
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| Image quality is good, no doubt about that. For the majority of the test, I only had the 18-135 mm lens. Since it became abundantly clear that this is perhaps not the right choice for a demanding photographer, I got the 18-70 mm lens ... |
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| ... which will undoubtedly be a better choice for D80 buyers. Believe me, it suits the camera much better. After all, the D80 produces such high image quality, it deserves the best in lenses. |
Regardless of which of the two kit lenses you purchase (either the 18-135 mm or the 18-70 mm), the kit price is the same, around EUR 1300. Do go for the AF-S DX ED 18-70 mm f/3.5-4.5G lens. After all, by buying the Nikon D80, you’ve proved that you’re a demanding photographer.
